Junkbranding

JUNKBRANDING AW26 UNPICKED — Unpick, Recut, Wear

Unpick Recut Wear
  1. 01 Unpick
  2. 02 Recut
  3. 03 Wear

AW26 Unpicked — 24 looks

Close-up of an opened wool edge and white basting stitches

AW26 — Unpicked

JUNKBRANDING begins with jackets left in Tokyo tailoring shops. Each is taken apart and traced before the cloth is cut again. The archive runs from the 1970s to the 1990s.

For AW26, the shoulders drop and the sleeves lengthen. Canvas and white basting thread sit on the outside of the wool, showing details usually hidden beneath it.

About the atelier
The back of a jacket opened to show canvas and thread

From jacketto coat.

Collections

All looks
LOOK 01: full-length black tailored coat with white basting along the seams
LOOK 04: a model walking in a jacket and pleated skirt

AW26 — Unpicking and basting

Unpicked

Twenty-four looks made from reclaimed jackets. Shoulder pads are removed; canvas and white basting stitches remain on view.

Looks
24
Material
Wool gabardine / horsehair canvas
Silhouette
Shoulder −3 cm / sleeve +8 cm
Presented
March 2026 · Kuramae, Tokyo
View AW26 collection
A model on a breakwater with a coat lifted by the wind

AW26 Campaign — Sotobo, January 2026

Movement

See the campaign

Editorial

All stories
Designer Toru Mashiba standing beside an atelier window
Interview12 min
Archived jackets hanging with numbered tags
Archive6 min
Close-up of jacket canvas and white pad stitching
Material4 min
Worn leather boots beside wool cloth
Still life3 min

Atelier process

One jacket,six stages

A jacket basted together on a dress form
Jacket patterns and numbered tags on a cutting table

  1. Collect

    Source unclaimed jackets from closed tailoring shops. Record the tailor and year on a numbered tag.

  2. Unpick

    Separate the outer cloth, canvas, lining and buttons. A jacket takes around four hours to unpick.

  3. Draft

    Lay the panels flat, trace the original cut, then redraw the shoulder and sleeve.

  4. Baste

    Assemble the pieces with white cotton thread for fitting. Some stitches remain visible in the finished garment.

  5. Fit

    Check the garment on a form and a fit model. Adjust the canvas to support the shoulder without a pad.

  6. Finish

    Machine-sew the main seams and finish the hems by hand. Add the source, year and edition number to the inside label.