Junkbranding
AW26 LOOK 01: a full-length black coat with white basting stitches

AW26 Un—picked

Season
AW26 — Unpicking and basting
Looks
24
Presented
March 2026 · Kuramae, Tokyo

Statement

A jacket in the archive has a lower right shoulder and a deeper left inside pocket. Details like these remain in the AW26 patterns. The shoulder pads come out, the shoulder line drops by 3 cm and the sleeves gain 8 cm.

Canvas, pad stitching and basting thread are brought to the outside. The wool still carries the cut of the original jacket, but its construction is easier to see.

Close-up of white pad stitching on horsehair canvas

Materials

  • Wool gabardineReclaimed British and Bishu wool gabardine from the 1970s–1990s, 290 g/m².
  • Horsehair canvasOriginal horsehair canvas, cleaned and pad-stitched again.
  • Cotton basting threadWhite No. 40 cotton basting thread, partly retained in the finished garment.
  • Horn buttonsRecovered horn buttons. Their number and shape vary from piece to piece.

24 looks

Five selected looks. Edition numbers identify individual pieces within each design’s production run.

A black tailored coat with white basting along the seams

AW26 — Look 01

Basted overcoat

Fabric
Wool gabardine, 290 g/m²
Source
Ginza tailor, 1983
Detail
Exposed horsehair canvas; No. 40 basting thread
Edition
38 / 60
A model walking in a jacket and pleated skirt

AW26 — Look 04

Unpicked jacket, kilt

Fabric
Wool serge
Source
Kanda tailor, 1979
Detail
One sleeve removed, leaving the armhole open
Edition
21 / 40
A model standing with folded arms in a grey jacket

AW26 — Look 07

Reversed blazer

Fabric
Wool tweed
Detail
Lining removed; body turned inside out
Source
Nihonbashi tailor, 1991
Edition
12 / 40
Back of a jacket with its outer cloth removed to expose canvas and thread

AW26 — Look 12

Open-back jacket

Fabric
Wool gabardine
Detail
Back panel opened to expose the canvas
Source
Ginza tailor, 1986
Edition
09 / 24
Rear view of a model in a long coat

AW26 — Look 19

Sealed long coat

Fabric
Wool gabardine
Detail
Centre vent sewn closed
Length
Length: 128 cm
Edition
16 / 30

Pattern draft

Look 01 — Basted overcoat

Six pattern pieces for the LOOK 01 coat, based on a 1983 jacket. The shoulder is lowered by 3 cm and the sleeve extended by 8 cm. Dashed lines indicate a 1 cm seam allowance; arrows mark the grain. The diagram is illustrative, not a cutting pattern.

  1. Back×2
  2. Front×2
  3. Upper sleeve×2
  4. Collar×1
  5. Pocket×2
  6. Under sleeve×2

Grid: 5cm / Scale 1:10

Next collection — SS26 Weight of Water